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Edited by: Fern Sidman
In the realm of fashion, Martin Greenfield’s name reverberates with a legacy that transcends mere craftsmanship. Defying boundaries of taste and time, Greenfield’s artistry in tailoring has adorned the frames of presidents, gangsters, and Hollywood icons alike, according to a report on Wednesday in The New York Times. From President Dwight D. Eisenhower to the likes of Meyer Lansky, Leonardo DiCaprio, and LeBron James, Greenfield’s suits have draped the powerful and the celebrated, earning him the esteemed title of the nation’s greatest men’s tailor.
The passing of Martin Greenfield on Wednesday at the age of 95, marks the end of an era for the world of custom tailoring and garment manufacturing. He spent his last days a hospital in Manhasset, N.Y., on Long Island, his son Tod told the NYT.
A titan in his field, Greenfield’s journey from the depths of despair to the pinnacle of success embodies the quintessential immigrant tale of perseverance, hard work, and triumph against all odds.
Yet, behind the scenes of glamour and fame lies a story of resilience and survival that is as remarkable as the garments he meticulously crafted. For years, the origins of Greenfield’s expertise remained shrouded in mystery, concealed beneath layers of success and acclaim, as per the information provided in the NYT report. Few knew of the crucible from which his talent emerged: the horrors of Auschwitz.
Born Maximilian Grünfeld in 1928 in the village of Pavlovo, which was then in Czechoslovakia and is now in western Ukraine. The NYT reported that his family was prosperous: His father, Joseph, was an industrial engineer; his mother, Tzyvia (Berger) Grünfeld, ran the home.
Greenfield’s early years were marked by upheaval and uncertainty. At the tender age of 12, Max found himself uprooted from his home in Pavlovo, as the specter of war loomed large over his community, the NYT report noted. Fleeing to Budapest to seek refuge with relatives, he soon discovered that safety was a fleeting illusion. Rejected by those he sought solace with, Max embarked on a perilous journey of survival, finding shelter in the unlikeliest of places—a brothel where compassionate women offered him sanctuary amidst the chaos.
In the shadow of uncertainty, Max carved out a semblance of normalcy, assuming the role of a junior car mechanic to eke out a living. However, fate dealt him a cruel blow when a hand injury rendered him unable to continue his work, forcing him to confront the harsh realities of his circumstances. With resilience born of necessity, Max made the difficult decision to return to Pavlovo, hoping to find solace amidst the familiar contours of home.
Yet, his reprieve was short-lived as the inexorable march of Nazi tyranny descended upon his doorstep. Rounded up with his family and herded onto a train bound for Auschwitz, Max confronted the horrors of genocide with unwavering courage. On arrival at the notorious Nazi death camp, he was separated from his mother; his sisters, Rivka and Simcha; and his brother, Sruel Baer, as was explained in the NYT report. He remained with his father only briefly. All of them died in the Holocaust.
Among the countless horrors etched in Max’s memory, one instance stands out—a stark reminder of the arbitrary cruelty inflicted upon innocent lives. Working alongside another boy, Max witnessed the chilling spectacle of a young life cut short, a casualty of senseless brutality, the report in the NYT said. In the face of such unfathomable cruelty, Max’s resolve remained unbroken, his spirit unbowed by the specter of death that loomed over him.
As a teenager, Max was a skinny Jewish prisoner forced into the harrowing confines of Auschwitz. His daily task? Washing the clothes of Nazi guards, a demeaning and soul-crushing assignment that offered little respite from the brutality of his captors, the NYT report explained. It was in the laundry room, amidst the stench of oppression that Greenfield’s journey towards mastery began.
One fateful day, a simple mishap altered the course of young Max’s life. Accidentally tearing the collar of a Nazi guard’s shirt proved to be a catalyst for transformation. The repercussions were swift and brutal, as the guard lashed out in anger, punishing Max for his mistake, the report said. Yet, from this moment of agony emerged a glimmer of defiance and ingenuity.
With the help of a fellow prisoner, Max learned the art of sewing, a skill that would prove to be his salvation. Mending the torn collar became more than just a task; it became a symbol of resilience and defiance in the face of unimaginable cruelty, as was pointed out in the NYT report. And when Max decided to don the repaired shirt beneath his prison uniform, he unwittingly unlocked a new realm of possibility.
The simple act of wearing the guard’s shirt bestowed upon Max a semblance of authority and privilege within the confines of Auschwitz. Guards, deceived by the illusion of status conveyed by the garment, afforded him liberties and privileges previously unimaginable. The report in the NYT asserted that the shirt became a talisman of survival, a silent testament to the power of clothing in shaping perception and reality.
“The day I first wore that shirt,” Mr. Greenfield wrote seven decades later, “was the day I learned clothes possess power.”
Max ripped another guard’s uniform. This time, it was deliberate. He was creating a clandestine wardrobe that would help him survive the Holocaust, according to the NYT report.
“Two ripped Nazi shirts,” he once remarked, “helped this Jew build America’s most famous and successful custom-suit company,” the report in the NYT said. These words encapsulate the indomitable spirit and unwavering determination that defined Greenfield’s remarkable life.
Yet, amid the darkness of Auschwitz, a glimmer of hope emerged. Freed from the clutches of the Nazis in the spring of 1945 after a harrowing death march and transfer to the Buchenwald concentration camp, Max embarked on a journey of survival and resilience that would ultimately lead him to the shores of America.
Arriving in New York City as a refugee in 1947, Max faced the daunting challenge of building a new life from scratch. Armed with little more than determination and a willingness to work hard, he set out to carve his own path in his adopted homeland, as per the information contained in the NYT report.
Changing his name to Martin Greenfield in an effort to assimilate into American society, he quickly found employment through an acquaintance. Initially employed as a “floor boy” at GGG, a clothier in Brooklyn, Greenfield quickly distinguished himself through his dedication and skill. The NYT report explained that over time, he forged a close bond with GGG’s founder and president, William P. Goldman, who introduced him to the firm’s elite clientele, including icons like Frank Sinatra and Sammy Davis Jr. As Greenfield’s reputation grew, so too did his influence within the industry.
However, it was Greenfield’s unwavering work ethic and thirst for knowledge that set him apart. Studying every aspect of the garment-making process, from darting and stitching to pressing and finishing, he honed his skills with a singular focus, as per the NYT report. Reflecting on his experiences in his memoir, Greenfield remarked, “If the Nazis taught me anything, it was that a laborer with indispensable skills is less likely to be discarded.”
In the late 1970s, at a time when local garment manufacturing was on the decline, Greenfield boldly established his business in the heart of East Williamsburg, Brooklyn, according to the NYT report. Housed in a historic four-story building that had been a hub for clothiers since the early 20th century, Greenfield Clothiers became a bastion of tradition and craftsmanship in an era of mass production and globalization.
This marked a significant milestone in his career, cementing his status as a pioneer in the world of bespoke tailoring.
Decades later, Greenfield began sharing his harrowing experiences of the Holocaust more widely, culminating in the publication of his memoir, as was noted in the NYT report. This candid account of his survival served as a poignant reminder of the atrocities of war and the resilience of the human spirit.
In recognition of his unparalleled craftsmanship and dedication to his craft, Greenfield was hailed as America’s best tailor by prestigious publications such as GQ, Vanity Fair, and CNN, according to the information contained in the NYT report. This accolade was a testament to Greenfield’s unwavering commitment to excellence and his enduring legacy in the world of fashion.
Despite the allure of overseas manufacturing and cost-cutting measures, Greenfield remained steadfast in his commitment to quality and integrity. He refused to compromise on his standards, ensuring that every garment produced bore the hallmark of excellence that had become synonymous with the Greenfield name.
Today, Martin Greenfield Clothiers stands as New York City’s last surviving union clothing factory, a testament to Greenfield’s unwavering dedication to preserving the legacy of American craftsmanship, the report in the NYT said. Amidst the rhythmic hum of machinery and the scent of freshly cut fabric, some 50 skilled garment workers ply their trade, each imbued with a particular expertise honed over years of dedication.
In an interview conducted by the NYT in March of last year for the recently published obituary, Tod Greenfield, Martin’s son, spoke of the company’s enduring commitment to quality and tradition.
“Greenfield Clothiers offers services that New York’s designers and wealthy suit-wearers could hardly find anywhere else,” Tod Greenfield remarked, highlighting the unique niche that his father’s company occupies in the modern fashion landscape.
In this age-old workshop, time-honored techniques reign supreme. Garments are meticulously assembled over the course of approximately 10 hours, with every press and fold of fabric executed manually, as was explained in the NYT report. It is this attention to detail that sets Martin Greenfield Clothiers apart, allowing for the customization of each garment to the exact specifications of its wearer.
The shop’s commitment to traditional craftsmanship is epitomized by the presence of several century-old buttonhole-cutting machines, still in use to this day, the NYT pointed out in their report. A rusted dial on one such contraption bears testament to the countless buttonholes it has meticulously crafted over the years – a staggering 1,074,000,000 and counting.
Beyond its role as a workshop, Martin Greenfield Clothiers serves as a nexus for political, artistic, and athletic luminaries alike.
The NYT report indicated that the acknowledgments section of Greenfield’s 2014 memoir, “Measure of a Man: From Auschwitz Survivor to Presidents’ Tailor,” enumerates the people “we have had the privilege of working alongside”: Gerald R. Ford, Bill Clinton, Barack Obama, Donald J. Trump, Joseph R. Biden, Colin Powell, Ed Koch, Michael R. Bloomberg, Frank Sinatra, Paul Newman, Martin Scorsese, Denzel Washington, Michael Jackson, Kobe Bryant and Carmelo Anthony — among many, many others.
In the realm of New York City’s elite, a hand-sewn Greenfield suit has become a low-frequency status symbol, coveted by those in the highest echelons of society. Indicated in the NYT report was the fact that former police commissioners Raymond Kelly and William J. Bratton count themselves among Greenfield’s esteemed clientele, drawn to the unparalleled quality and craftsmanship that defines each garment.
Yet, amidst the glamour and prestige, Martin Greenfield remained a consummate professional, with a knack for discretion and diplomacy. The NYT report recalled that when recounting anecdotes about his famous clients, Greenfield’s wit and charm were ever-present, whether it was crafting a suit for the towering Shaquille O’Neal or fulfilling the sartorial requests of infamous mobster Meyer Lansky.
However, Greenfield knew when to tread lightly, especially when it came to discussing the more secretive aspects of his clientele. As was noted in the NYT report, when asked about his interactions with Lansky, Greenfield remained tight-lipped, offering only a cryptic remark: “He was a very nice guy to me, and I knew he was in charge. That’s all I’m saying!”
Initially, the company’s mainstay was manufacturing ready-to-wear suits for prestigious department stores such as Neiman Marcus and iconic brands such as Brooks Brothers and Donna Karan. Greenfield’s collaboration with designers like Donna Karan proved instrumental in shaping the trajectory of his career, with Karan herself acknowledging his influence. “His genius is in interpreting my vision,” she remarked to the NYT, highlighting Greenfield’s unparalleled ability to bring designers’ concepts to life.
However, it was a fortuitous turn of events that set Greenfield Clothiers on a new path. When Greenfield agreed to craft 1920s-style outfits for the HBO series “Boardwalk Empire,” little did he know that it would mark a significant shift in the company’s focus, as was recalled in the NYT report. Over the course of the show’s run, Greenfield and his team produced over 600 suits for 173 characters, showcasing their expertise and attention to detail on a global stage.
This foray into the world of film and television opened up new opportunities for Greenfield Clothiers, with prestigious projects such as the Showtime series “Billions” and acclaimed movies such as “The Great Gatsby,” “The Wolf of Wall Street,” and “Joker” following suit, the NYT report indicated. Of these, perhaps the most iconic creation to emerge from Greenfield’s workshop is the striking red suit and mismatched orange vest worn by Joaquin Phoenix in “Joker,” solidifying Greenfield’s status as a master of his craft.
Yet, amidst the glitz and glamour of Hollywood, Greenfield remained grounded in his roots, as evidenced by his dressing of early 20th-century comedian Eddie Cantor and the actor portraying him on “Boardwalk Empire” the NYT report added. It is this blend of tradition and innovation that defines Greenfield’s legacy, a legacy that spans continents and generations.
New York City real estate developer, Ronald Edelstein, a personal friend of Greenfield’s recalls wonderful memories of the time they spent together. The son of Holocaust survivors, Edelstein told the Jewish Voice, “What shaped my decision to start attending synagogue services out in West Hampton was the influence of Martin Greenfield, my father and Jack Gora, whose daughter married Martin’s son Tod. I will always be indebted to Martin and the others for that.”
Moreover, Edelstein recalled that, “Martin was a very warm man with a huge heart. He always wore a beautiful smile on his face and lit up any room he entered. He was truly loved by everyone who was fortunate enough to have crossed paths with him. He really was a very special person and I was richly blessed to have known him.”
In recent years, Greenfield passed the reins of his business to his sons Tod and Jay, ensuring that his legacy would continue for generations to come.
Alongside his wife, Arlene, and four grandchildren, Greenfield leaves behind a legacy that transcends mere craftsmanship, embodying the values of resilience, determination, and hope.
His story is a testament to the power of perseverance and the enduring legacy of the human spirit. As we bid farewell to Martin Greenfield, we honor not only his remarkable achievements but also the indelible mark he has left on the world of fashion and beyond.
